Is City Hall Worth $18.91?

New York is a new city,
relatively speaking. In cities like Rome, Naples, and Paris
the underground world is enormous - centuries (if not millennia) old
quarries, ossuaries, and aqueducts catacomb huge sections of the
underground. Archaeologists and underground societies spend
years documenting these abandoned worlds, and are constantly
discovering new offshoots and networks.
The underground world in the cities of the western
hemisphere is mostly very different. There are a few unused
nooks and crannies underneath New York, but for the most part anything
underground is going to be part of the currently-in-use infrastructure
of the city. Somewhere in between these two worlds lie the
abandoned and never-used stations of the New York City subway
system.
The most famous of these is the gorgeous City Hall
station, built in 1904 and abandoned a little over 41 years
later. This is also the easiest abandoned station to see -
simply stay on the #6 train after the last stop downtown, and the train
will loop through the station. If you actually want to set
foot in the station, they open it up sporadically (I got to go during
the 100th anniversary of the subway in October of 2004), and the
transit museum gives tours a few times a year as well.
The other abandoned stations are
different. Unless you're considering a career as a track
worker, the easiest way to see those is simply to step off the edge of
the platform and walk.
I could say I do or don't recommend the hobby of
walking subway tracks, but it really would make no
difference. It's like B.A.S.E. jumping, or apotemnophilia,
or preaching on a street corner. Very few people feel the
need to do it; those that don't aren't going to start, and those that
do aren't going to swayed by someone pointing out why they
shouldn't. Still, I will list some quick pros and cons.
Pros are in pretty short supply. In fact,
unless you're the kind of person that's really into graffiti, graffiti
history, urban infrastructure, and/or going places most people don't
get to see, there really aren't any. The only one I can
think of is the chance to experience a particular urban juxtaposition
that I find really interesting - walking subway tracks and riding over
them in a train are two almost opposite experiences in almost the exact
same point in space. Riding is bright, crowded, noisy, and
(relatively) clean. You're probably fairly
relaxed. Walking is dark, solitary, quiet, and absolutely
filthy. And you're probably very, very far from
relaxed.
Now I do know people that have been walking subway
tracks for decades and are as comfortable down there as they are in
their own bedroom. Not me though. I've walked
tracks on five different subway systems on three continents, and I get
the same slightly nauseated feeling of nervousness, the same
adrenaline-fueled alertness, every time. I welcome
it. In my book, subway tracks are no place to get comfortable.
Cons, as you might imagine, are much more
prevalent. First and foremost, there is a very real danger
of dying. It's not that large, but it's definitely
there. People - sometimes experienced people, and sometimes
even professionals - have touched the third rail or gotten hit by a
train while walking tracks, both of which result in a very large dose
of instant death. Other cons include the fact that you
might get caught (generally not so bad unless you have graffiti
paraphernalia on you), and the aforementioned dirt and darkness.
Still, these cons haven't kept me from visiting most
of the abandoned stations and platforms that dot the tunnels of the New
York City subway system. Generally these visits are fairly
chill affairs - time the trains, make sure nobody's looking at you on
the platform, and off you go. One time, however, was
different.
It was a while ago, when I was fairly inexperienced
and still didn't quite know what I was doing. Our goal was
one of the abandoned IRT stations in Manhattan. It started
out pretty well - a train passed and we were off. We stuck
close to the wall, on the opposite side of the tracks from the third
rail, walking at a brisk but controlled pace. But before we
reached the platform another train passed coming the opposite
way. There was nowhere easy to hide and we hit the
abandoned station in a panic, sure we had been seen and reported.
I wanted to go back to the local station, which is
where we came from, but as we were closer to the express station my
companion thought it better to try to get out there. Big
mistake. There was a reason we had used the local station
instead of the express - express stations are really busy, and as we
approached it seemed certain we’d be seen coming out of the
tunnel. We ended up hiding in a little nook between the
express tracks, about 100 feet from the station, contemplating our next
move.
We didn't get to contemplate for long - flashlights
were coming our way from the station. “Run!” my companion
said. This was a lot different from the careful excursion
coming in. The “brisk but controlled” pace went out the
window. We booked it down the tracks, constantly hopping
the third rail while having to dodge the other trains that came along.
We got back to the local station and jumped back up on
the platform. One guy dressed in civilian clothes was
staring right at us as we exited. We were sure he was an
undercover cop. But we couldn't very well head back onto
the tracks, so we did the only other thing we could - pretended like we
belonged there, and walked confidently toward him.
Still, I was sweating bullets as we came up to the
guy, ready to have him whip out a pair of handcuffs at any
moment. But as we came closer we noticed he was dressed
pretty shabbily, even for an undercover cop - it was obviously just a
guy hoping to bed down for the night in an out-of-the-way corner on a
not-so-busy platform. “Oh thank God man,” he said, as we
passed him, “I was sure you guys were cops.” We gave him a
quick smile and got the hell out of there.
More about the abandoned subway station of New York City can be found here